A DIY guide with expert Dave Hirst
Wall panelling has been having a moment for the last few years. From French-inspired traditional panelling to modern and contemporary styles, adding panelling to your walls is a great way to bring detail and texture to any space. Plus, it’s useful for hiding imperfections and uneven surfaces, too.
The good news is, a beautifully panelled wall is something you can create yourself without hiring someone else. It’s always helpful to hear from an expert, though, so we’ve teamed up with joiner Dave Hirst from Brownhist Joinery to get his top tips for a professional result.
Here’s our handy DIY guide on how to panel a wall - take a look!
About Brownhirst Joinery:
BrownHirst Joinery Ltd was founded in 2013 by David Hirst who has over 2 decades years of experience in the industry.
What you’ll need to get started...
Before you jump straight into your wall panelling DIY, check you have all the materials to hand. Panelling a wall is a precision job so although you don’t need to be a pro, you do need the right equipment.
Dave says:
“MDF is the easiest and cheapest option for wall panelling, but you can also use solid timber. Don’t forget skirting and small moulding details - you can buy this off the shelf.”
- MDF or solid timber panels
- Wood primer
- Spirit level
- Glue
- Hand saw
- Filler or caulk
- Paint and brush
- Sandpaper
- Tape measure
- Pencil
Step 1: Decide on your wall panelling style
There are a few options to choose from when it comes to wall panelling:
Victorian - a classic style that’s great for a floor-to-ceiling option
Shaker - a square look with a 3D finish
Shiplap - wood is marked with grooves rather than cut through
Slatted - easy to install and very modern
Dave says:
“The most popular style of wall panelling is shaker, which mimics older period homes and makes a great feature wall in the bedroom. But more and more people are choosing funky designs with triangles or squares for a fresh, modern look.”
MDF or solid timber can be used for all types of wall panelling, but Dave recommends MDF if you have a lot of different panels - “there’s a risk of movement with solid timber, depending on how your home is heated. With MDF there’s less chance the wood will move once it’s stuck in place.”
Step 2: Measure the wall
For a perfect finish, make sure you measure your wall as accurately as possible.
Dave says:
“As a rough guide, your panelling will be 1.1 metres high from the floor level. Measure the length of your wall then times it by 1.1 to give the square metre space in which your panelling will sit.”
Mark out the square metre space, then calculate how much panelling you’ll need by holding up an example panel to the wall and marking the positioning with a pencil. Use a spirit level to keep everything straight.
Step 3: Cutting panels
Once you have the measurements for each panel piece, you’ll need to cut them to their exact size. You could use a hand saw and do this yourself, but we recommend taking your wood to a local supplier who will use a precision tool to get the cuts spot on.
Dave says:
“Don’t go smaller than 100mm for any of your wood panels - suppliers won’t be able to cut smaller than this for you.”
Step 4: Prepare your wall
The best surface to work with for wall panelling is a freshly plastered wall, but that’s not always possible. Dave recommends putting a full sheet of 6mm MDF up on your wall before you start panelling - this provides a smooth, even surface for your panelling and also has the same finish for a seamless look.
Always make sure to sand down walls so they’re smooth and remove any nails.
Step 5: Stick down your panels
To glue your MDF full length board to the wall before you start your panelling, Dave recommends a clear silicone. Allow this to dry fully before adding panelling on top.
Dave says:
“Between MDF joints, use a wood glue or polyurethane glue to stop any movement in the future. It’s also a good idea to use a paslode second fix nailer to fix panels to the wall firmly.”
Step 6: Filling and sealing
No matter how precise you are with your panels, there are bound to be gaps here and there. Dave recommends using a two-part wood filler in any gaps - clear the excess before it’s fully hardened, then lightly sand down before painting.
Step 7: Painting
Prime your panelling first to ensure your paint adheres to the surface. A smaller paint brush is a good idea for getting into those nooks and crannies, but Dave also recommends using a paint sprayer for that ‘furniture finish’ - just make sure your cover the whole area in sheets before you start.
Dave says:
“Using moisture resistant MDF (MR MDF) is a good idea as it eliminates a lot of the painting prep work - it’s not as porous as regular MDF and paints up fantastically.”
With our easy steps and expert commentary from Dave the joiner, you should have your panelled wall up in no time.
